A visitor to Costa Rica around the beginning of December would note that it was beginning to look a lot like Christmas — lights are hung on houses and in windows, Santa decorations appear, store displays urge consumption and Christmas carols are played on the radio. The law that mandates each employer pay an “aguinaldo” to their employees at the beginning of December means working Costa Ricans have one-twelfth of a year’s pay in their pockets with which to enjoy the holidays.
An important part of the preparation for Christmas is the assembly of the portal or crèche to which many Costa Rican families devote much effort. Some examples of these manger scenes are quite large, often occupying a whole room in the house. The figures of Mary and Joseph are placed there first and the baby Jesus is laid in his manger only on Christmas Eve. Pious families will gather around the crèche and say prayers, after which they may temporarily cover the scene so that they might party and dance.
On Christmas Eve El Niño will bring presents for the children (though as in many Latin American countries the Christ Child is being gradually displaced as the gift-bringer by Santa Claus), fireworks shows will light up the sky and people will feast. Essential to the meal are tamales, made of corn dough, mashed potatoes, chicken and pork wrapped in plantain leaves and boiled accompanied by eggnog, local alcoholic punches and rum.
The Christmas season is a time for parades such as the Festival of Lights, bull-runs (the Costa-Rican equivalent of bull fights), fairs, choral festivals, dance festivals and rodeos. It all ends on February 2, Candlemas, when processions of candle-holding believers honour the Virgin.