Christmas Every Day

Pasteles are a traditional Spanish Caribbean Christmas food. Similar to tamales they are banana or plantain leaves filled with a variety of stuffings, tied and steamed. They are often made communally by groups of women,  some chopping, some stuffing, some wrapping. A Venezuelan dish that resembles pasteles is hallacas; in Nicaragua the equivalent is nacatamales.

 A Puerto Rican song proclaims:

Si me dan pasteles,
Dénmelos calientes,
Qui pasteles fríos,
Empachan la gente.

If you serve pasteles
Bring them steaming hot.
I’ll end up with heartburn
If steaming hot they’re not.

The Christmas season in Nicaragua begins on December 7 with La Purísima, the national holiday that marks the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. It’s a day of parades, songsand such exuberance that the celebrations are called La Noche de Gritería — The Night of the Screams. Fireworks called Volcanoes, Red Bombs, Roman Candles, Butterflies and Bottle Rockets light up the sky all night. Other signs of the season are the Christmas goods in the markets (gifts, candles, seasonal food and material for making or adding to the nacimiento ), carols and the setting up of the family crèche. Houses are decorated with poinsettias (called Flores de Pastor  — shepherd’s flowers — in Nicaragua), colourful paper decorations and pictures of the Nativity. Nine days before Christmas a special series of prayers, a novena, is said.

 Christmas Eve sees the preparation of the dinner that will be served in the evening:  making nacatamal wrapped in plantain leaves take a lot of work. Chicken is also likely on the menu with rice and beans; fruit, biscuits, squash cooked in honey, leche de burra,  and rum punch follow. After dinner people go to church for the midnight mass; many will wait in line after the service to kiss the doll representiung the baby Jesus in the church’s crèche. At home again they will open presents brought by El Niño, the Christ Child, and place his image in the family Nativity scene.

January 6 is Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day. Children will have put out their shoes the previous with a little grass in them for the camels of the Magi and in the morning they will find treats and little presents. It’s also a day for god-parents to visit their god-children and to bring them a small gift. At night the Christmas season ends with yet more fireworks.

One of the earliest English carols says:

Lordings, Christmas loves good drinking,
Wines of Gascoigne, France, Anjou,
English ale that drives out thinking,
Prince of liquors old or new.
Every neighbour shares the bowl,
Drinks of the spicy liquor deep,
Drinks his fill without control,
Till he drowns his care in sleep.

And now — by Christmas, jolly soul!
By this mansion’s generous sire!
By this wine, and by this bowl,
And all the joys they both inspire!
Here I’ll drink a health to all,
The glorious task shall first be mine:
And ever may foul luck befall
Him that to pledge me shall decline!

 Christmas has ben associated with festive drinking since the time of the late Roman Empire and every nation that celebrates Christmas brings to it its own favourite Christmas beverage. In England the wassail bowl was full at Christmas with ale, roasted apples and spices, served hot. Ale was referred to once as “nog” and when the Americans adopted the French “lait de poule”, a drink with eggs, sugar  and milk, they added liquor to make the modern eggnog. Christmas is Scandinavia is fuelled by glögg, a spiced wine similar to the glühwein which warms Germans and Austrians. In Ecuador they drink canelazo, a hot drink made of spiced tea and an anise-flavored brandy. Sorrel is the basis of the Jamaican Christmas drink. Rum punches gladden the heart of the Caribbean and Central America while in Denmark drinkers reach for special Christmas varieties of beer and schnapps. In Norway the best Christmas akevitt is that which has been transported in ship’s barrels twice across the Equator. Champagne is drunk on holiday occasions around the world (though Spaniards seem to prefer their own sparkling wine called cava.)

Whatever the beverage of choice drinking at Christmas symbolizes conviviality, hospitality and a celebration of relaxation from work. It also means that drinking to excess is a Yule-time problem and police forces around the world have special holiday enforcement of drinking-and-driving laws.

 The veneration of the crèche which began in the Middle Ages led in Germany to the custom of Kindelwiegen or “Cradle Rocking”. At first the rocking was performed by priests who sang a duet about the Virgin and the Baby Jesus; the choir and congregation then joined in singing and dancing around the crib. Later the people were allowed to rock the cradle themselves. In the sixteenth century Protestants abandoned the custom, and even to Catholics the rocking seemed like an irreverent act, so the image of the Christ Child was removed to the altar while folk danced around it as Barnaby Googe relates:

Three Maisses every Priest doth sing upon that solemne day,

With offrings unto enery one, that so the more may play.

This done, a woodden childe in clowtes is on the aultar set

About the which both boyes and gyrles do daunce and trymly jet,

And Carrols sing in prayse of Christ, and for to helpe them heare,

The Organs aunswere every verse, with sweete and solemne cheare.

The Priestes doe rore aloude, and round about the parentes stande,

To see the sport, and with their voyce do helpe them and their hande.

In the eighteenth century it was performed every day between Christmas and Candlemas by boy-acolytes of Brixen Cathedral in Tyrol.  The rowdiness of the scene may be inferred from the printed instructions to the sacristan: “Be sure to take a stick or a thong of ox hide, for the boys are often misbehaved.” The custom fell into disuse but has been revived in some Catholic parishes in the 21st century.

Christmas is enthusiastically celebrated by the Basque inhabitants of northern Spain. Manyt of the customs are common to Spain but two apsects of the Basque celebrations stand out: the many Christmas songs in their unique language and the figure of the Olentzero.

Carols have been composed in the Basque tongue since at least the sixteenth century and since then the region has produced a number whose fame has reached beyond its borders.  They include “Oi! Betllem” (O Bethehem), “Aur txiki” (Lovely Baby Mary Bore Him), “Belen’en sortu zaigu” (In Mid-winter They Set Out); and “Birjinia gaztettotbat zegoen” (The Angel Gabriel from Heaven Came.) Basque tunes were used by the English composer Sabine Baring-Gould for three of his carols: “Gabriel’s Message”, “The Infant King” and “Lullay My Liking”.

 The Olentzero is a legendary figure, usually portrayed as a charcoal burner or a shepherd, who comes down from the mountains at Christmas time to announce the coming of the joyful season, to partake in its festivities and hand out gifts. He is not a handsome figure, but a vigorous one dressed in beret and typical Basque garb, capable of prodigious feats of celebrating. In many villages his image is carried through the streets on the shoulders of folk who take it from house to house singing carols.

Numerous fiestas are held in the Basque country during the Christmas season beginning with those on St. Nicholas Day, December 6, when parades of children will process through the streets singing songs about the saint and telling the stories of his amazing career. Saint Lucia fairs (December 13) and Saint Thomas fairs (December 21) will bring farmers into towns to show their produce. On Christmas Eve in  village of Labastida groups of shepherds, draped in pelts, will recite ancient verses and perform dances which are likely remmants of medieval pastoral drama.

In the Middle Ages it was customary during the Christmas season for marginalized groups such as old women, unmarried women, students, or children to be given license to go questing.  These begging visits saw groups go door-to-door and demand food or money. In the sixteenth century Barnabe Googe wrote disapprovingly in rhyme of the custom:

Three weekes before the day whereon was born the Lorde of Grace,

And on the Thursday Boyes and Girles do runne in every place,

And bounce and beate on every doore, with blowes and lustie snaps,

And crie, the advent of the Lorde not borne as yet perhaps,

And wishing to the neighbours all, that in the houses dwell,

A happie yeare, and every thing to spring and prosper well:

Here have they peares, and plumbs, and pence, each man gives willinglee …

Sometimes the young carried branches or mistletoes, reminiscent of the strenae twigs of the Roman Kalends (which is why to this day the French call New Year’s gifts étrennes). It was considered good luck to give to questers, especially as their demands were often backed up by threats: “May God plague you with diarrhea until next Christmas!” “May God send you rats with neither cat nor dog to catch them nor stick to kill them!” On the Greek island of Chios the householder who skimped on Christmas treats would be wished cloven feet and on the Scottish island of South Uist this chilling malediction was laid on the tight-fisted:

The curse of God and the New Year be on you

And the scath [harm] of the plaintive buzzard,

Of the hen-harrier, of the raven, of the eagle,

And the scath of the sneaking fox.

The scath of the dog and cat be on you,

Of the boar, of the badger and of the ghoul,

Of the hipped bear and of the wild wolf,

And the scath of the foul polecat.

It should not be surprising that most houses gave what they could, providing the treat lest the trick fall on them.

 

An adaptation of Psalm 98 by the prolific English hymnist Isaac Watts (1674-1748) who in his youth wrote a hymn each week for 222 consecutive weeks. In his life he produced fifty-volumes of published works including Hymns and Spiritual Songs, 1707, and the 1719 Psalms of David in the Language of the New Testament, from which “Joy to the World” is taken.

The hymn has been extremely popular over the centuries though various denominations have seen fit to alter some lyrics to suit their theological preoccupations. Some Unitarians, for example, took umbrage at the notion of Original Sin contained in the fourth line of the third verse and Adventists, looking to an imminent return of Christ, felt more comfortable singing “Joy to the world! the Lord will come.” There is even a nineteenth-century version adapted to let atheists sing with a clear conscience.

Musicologists still debate the origins of the tune and some assert a similarity to a portion of Handel’s Messiah. The American composer Lowell Mason (1792-1872) combined Watt’s poetry with the mystery music in 1836.

Joy to the world! the Lord is come;
Let earth receive her King;
Let every heart prepare Him room,
and heaven and nature sing,
and heaven and nature sing,
and heaven, and heaven and nature sing.

Joy to the earth! the Savior reigns;
Let men their songs employ;
while fields and floods,
rocks, hills and plains
Repeat the sounding joy,
Repeat the sounding joy,
Repeat, repeat the sounding joy.

No more let sins and sorrows grow,
nor thorns infest the ground;
He comes to make His blessing flow
far as the curse is found,
far as the curse is found,
far as, far as the curse is found.

He rules the world with truth and grace,
and makes the nations prove
the glories of His righteousness,
and wonders of His love,
and wonders of His love,
and wonders, wonders of His love.

 

A part of the  celebration of Christmas in medieval French churches when parody of sacred services and social inversion were allowed and when clergymen were given license for light-hearted behaviour that was unthinkable during the rest of the year.

 The Feast of the Ass, usually held on January 14, celebrated the role played in the Nativity by the humble donkey, the beast who carried Mary to Bethlehem, who stood over the baby Jesus in the stable and who carried the Holy Family to safety in Egypt when King Herod was bent on killing the infant. As the clergy or students paraded toward the church where the ass was to be honoured they sang a “hymn of praise”:

From Oriental country came/ A lordly ass of highest fame,/  So beautiful, so strong and trim,/ No burden was too great for him./  Hail, Sir Donkey, hail!

 For the ceremony itself a donkey was often brought into the church and during the Mass which ended the service the congregation made donkey noises. Like the Feast of Fools, with which the Feast of the Ass was linked, this sort of behaviour eventually grew too outrageous to be tolerated and the church moved to suppress it. By the sixteenth century it had almost entirely disappeared from the Christmas scene.

The investigative talents of Philomena Cunk are turned on Christmas. Ronald Hutton, a genuine expert on paganism and English historical festivities, is the first interviewee.

A southwestern English variant on the Yule Log is the ashen faggot, a bundle of ash sticks tied together with bark bands. It was burnt on one of the Twelve Nights and it was customary that a fresh round of drinks was served every time one of the bands broke in the fire. The faggot could be quite large, taking hours to burn, and the bands could number over a dozen. Like the Yule Log the faggot must traditionally be lit with a piece of last year`s wood. In a Devonshire custom, the unmarried women of the household each choose a band and the girl whose band is the first to catch fire is the next one to be married; a more recent tradition holds that a woman who steps over the bundle will become pregnant within the year.

Though many of the ceremonies surrounding the bringing in of the Yule Log have disappeared, the burning of the ashen faggot is preserved in Devon and Somerset, especially in pubs where the conviviality and drinks now come at a price. Also known as the ashton faggot.